I’m not exactly sure what I was expecting when I visited Tbilisi, Georgia, but it truly is a remarkable and one-of-a-kind place. It doesn’t have that touristy feel, so you still get that off-the-beaten-track experience, which is rare nowadays.
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Let me give you a bit of geography – Georgia, located in the South Caucasus, is situated on the Black Sea and shares borders with Russia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, and Turkey.
The city is filled with dramatic and picturesque architecture, giving it a charming and eclectic vibe. It’s a cosmopolitan city with a cool underground atmosphere and plenty of alternative and off-beat things to see and do.
Tbilisi is where centuries-old cobblestone paths meet vibrant street art, and where an 8000-year-old wine-making culture thrives. It truly is a walker’s paradise, as there is so much to see and discover on foot. You can get lost in the labyrinthine back streets of the old town, stumble upon hidden courtyards, and experience the soul of the Sololaki district.
The city is like a work of art and the eclectic mix of architectural styles, ranging from Art Nouveau and Neoclassical to traditional Georgian, will surprise you at every turn.
The historical Abanotubani district holds a special place in my heart. Seeing the steam rising from the natural hot springs and the distinctive brick domed roofs is an awesome sight. Tbilisi, which means ‘warm place’ truly lives up to its name! Taking a dip in those hot rejuvenating sulfur-rich waters after you’ve been walking around the city on a chilly day is absolute bliss!
This post is all about the best things to do in Tbilisi Georgia
TBILISI TRAVEL ESSENTIALS
Quick Tips
Tip #1:
To get around Tbilisi, we either walked or used the Bolt app to book taxis. It’s best to avoid hailing taxis from the street because my friend was ripped off when she did that.
Tip #2:
We decided to reserve a private car and driver for the entire day via GoTrip. It was a great choice as we got to explore Kazbegi and other attractions beyond Tbilisi. Plus, if you’re looking to plan ahead, GoTrip is also a reliable option for booking your airport transfers.
Tip #3:
Learning a few Georgian words and phrases before your trip is a great idea! It’s amazing how it breaks the ice and surprises the people you meet. Trust me, it’s worth it – gamajoba!
When to go to Tbilisi
We travelled to Tbilisi in November and thoroughly enjoyed the chilly sunny weather and vibrant blue skies for the majority of our trip. However, it’s suggested to visit during spring or autumn as summer can be a bit uncomfortable. Make the most of a wintry visit by taking full advantage of the cosy cafes and wine bars while exploring the city.
Accommodation in Tbilisi
We stayed at the TbiliSee Hotel on Betlemi Street, right in the heart of the historic Jewish quarter. The hotel was cosy and comfortable plus our room had a balcony with fantastic views. The neighbourhood was lovely to wander around, with its winding cobbled alleys, picturesque houses with grand balconies and hilly landscape.
It’s worth mentioning that the hotel is located uphill from Freedom Square and Abanotubani district, and the traffic can be busy at night if you’re planning to take taxis. Don’t miss the opportunity to climb the stairs on Betlemi Street for some incredible panoramic views of the city.
Another option is Communal Hotel Plekhanovi – housed in a beautiful townhouse with elegant vintage style décor. It’s situated on the other side of the river in the vibrant Plekhanovi district, known for its café culture, unique architecture, trendy bars, galleries, and antique stores. They also have a hotel in Sololaki.
If you’re looking for a luxurious stay, the Stamba Hotel in the upscale Vera neighbourhood is the perfect choice. We only went there for cocktails, but we were blown away by its blend of contemporary and vintage design.
When you walk into the lobby of this Soviet-era publishing house turned hotel you are met with this incredible combination of industrial concrete, cascading vines, cool repurposed furniture, and this beautiful library.
Georgian Cuisine – Food & Drink
Let’s dive into the topic of food – you can say goodbye to your diet when you’re in Georgia because every meal is a lavish feast and a heavy one at that!
From the succulent and plump dumplings called khinkali filled with meat, vegetables or cheese that you devour with your hands (no forks allowed!) to the delicious khachapuri, a bread stuffed with gooey cheese and an egg that is the ultimate comfort food on a chilly day.
I was surprised and happy to discover so many tasty veggie options. The dishes I tried were made with incredibly fresh ingredients, giving them a natural and rustic touch.
Georgia’s culture is deeply intertwined with the art of wine-making – they’ve been at it even longer than France and Italy! The unique method of fermenting wine in clay vessels known as qvevri, buried underground, has gained recognition from UNESCO.
Many of the city’s wine bars are located underground, tucked away in cosy brick cellars, creating a real atmospheric setting.
Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to the Bazari Orbeliani, a massive covered market and food court with Georgian and international cuisine located just 10 minutes away from Freedom Square, but it’s on the list for the next visit!
Nightlife in Tbilisi
When night falls, Tbilisi doesn’t go to sleep; it simply switches its rhythm. The alluring buzz of nightlife beckoned us. We explored restaurants, wine bars and sultry drinking dens tucked away in elegantly decaying buildings – most lacked any external signage, making them easy to miss.
In fact, we struggled to find quite a few places for this very reason, wandering up and down the streets, questioning if Google Maps had led us astray!
And then, we club hopped – we went to techno clubs like the world-famous Bassiani, situated in an old underground swimming pool, KHIDI and Mtkvarze. I couldn’t help but notice how similar a night out in Tbilisi and Berlin is, with their underground atmosphere, eclectic vibe, and vibrant techno music scene.
Things to do in Tbilisi and an easy day trip
Day 1
We arrived in Tbilisi at around 5 am, and I had arranged for an airport transfer via our hotel. I had made our reservation starting the previous day so we could check in right away and get some rest. Although I’m useless at napping when I just want to get out and explore a new place!
My friend had to log on to do some work that first morning, so I took the opportunity to do some solo exploration. However, before I headed out, we treated ourselves to our first taste of Khachapuri’s heavenly cheesiness in the rooftop restaurant in our hotel.
I explored Betlemi Street briefly and then headed downhill towards the Kura River. I walked alongside the river for a while, enjoying the amazing weather with clear blue skies and warm sunshine.
As I continued I passed the iconic Bridge of Peace and Rike Park across the water. The park is a popular green space to relax and close to where you can get the cable car up to Narikala Fortress which overlooks the city.
Next, I wandered over into the narrow streets of the Old Town and found the famous leaning clock tower created by Rezo Gabriadze, which stands proudly next to the puppet theatre.
Taking my time, I walked along Rustaveli Avenue, making my way towards the MOMA. This avenue is famous for its rich history and grand architecture. The avenue is lined with various shops, cafes, and restaurants, and it’s also home to the Georgian National Opera and Ballet Theater and the Georgia Parliament Building.
After getting my art fix at MOMA, I caught up with my friend at Café Daphna to indulge in some khinkali – the doughy-filled dumplings – I tried them filled with a delicious combination of mushrooms, cheese, and potato and a glass of Georgian wine on the side!
Wine Factory N1
In the evening, we ventured to Wine Factory N1 located in the Vera district. This renovated factory from the 19th century has been transformed into a vibrant hub, featuring wine bars, cafes, restaurants, charming courtyards, and trendy boutiques, making it an ideal spot for bar-hopping. We had dinner at Holy but I believe it has now closed permanently.
Day 2
Our day began bright and early as Otar, our Gotrip driver, arrived to pick us up. We had done our homework and planned out an exciting itinerary for our adventure in the Caucasus mountains.
The Georgian Military Highway, a scenic road connecting Georgia and Russia, promised epic mountain views, ancient monasteries, hot springs, waterfalls, quaint villages, and majestic fortresses.
GoTrip is the ultimate way to travel with complete independence and flexibility. You have the freedom to design your itinerary and decide where to make stops along the way, all while setting a fixed price in advance (we paid just $97). Plus, you can browse through reviews and select your preferred driver.
We had the pleasure of driving with Otar, who was an incredibly chill guy. He allowed us to do our own thing but was always available to offer helpful tips, capture amazing pictures, and even suggest an amazing food spot for us to check out on our return journey. It’s important to note that these drivers are not tour guides.
Ananuri Fortress
We stopped at the Ananuri Fortress, a UNESCO World Heritage site from the 17th century. It was located right by the Aragvi River, and we got to wander around the castle grounds and even climb up to the watchtower.
The view from up there was stunning, with panoramic sights of the river and valley. As a bonus, we stumbled upon a bunch of adorable little piglets trotting around the fortress walls.
Gudauri
We stopped in Gudauri, a ski resort (although it was not ski season), to grab some coffee on our way to the Panorama Gudauri (Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument).
This amazing monument, made of stone and concrete, offers a panoramic view of Devil’s Valley and showcases fascinating scenes from Georgian and Russian history, all set against the backdrop of the majestic mountains.
Dariali Gorge
We made a quick pit stop at Dariali Gorge, situated on the Russia-Georgia border. This incredible natural wonder is a river gorge with steep, jagged granite walls, carving its path for roughly 20km from Kazbegi to the border.
Kazbegi
Kazbegi, also known as Stepantsminda, is a charming town located just 12 KM away from the Russian border. Nestled amidst towering mountain peaks and picturesque valleys, the Gergeti Trinity Church stands peacefully above the town.
The view from its courtyard, overlooking Kazbegi town and the majestic Mount Kazbek, is breathtaking. Instead of hiking, we opted for an SUV ride arranged by our driver for a small fee from the car park below the church.
It can get quite chilly up there, so make sure to bundle up warmly. There is a dress code to enter the church – men are required to wear long pants, while women should have a skirt on. Since I was wearing trousers, I had to borrow a skirt to wear over them.
There were quite a few stray dogs just strolling around the area, and they were just too adorable! They either acted friendly or didn’t pay much attention to us.
During our journey back to Tbilisi, Otar suggested that we stop for a bite to eat at Restaurant Guda in Pasanauri. The place had gorgeous rustic decor and vintage pieces that I instantly fell in love with.
The air was filled with the mouthwatering aroma of woodsmoke and freshly baked bread. I ordered ajapsandali, a comforting slow-cooked stew made with eggplant, tomato, and bell pepper.
And, of course, I took the opportunity to indulge in more khinkali dumplings filled with mushrooms and cheese. To complement the meal, they served a crunchy, tangy side dish of cucumber and tomato topped with jonjoli, which is a pickled sprout made from the bladdernut bush.
And let’s not forget the bread, freshly baked in a wood-fired oven, shaped like a baguette and filled with molten cheese!
Tradition Music & Dance at Restaurant Tabla
Back in Tbilisi, we thought it would be rude not to experience some traditional Georgian music and dance, so we made a reservation at Restaurant Tabla in Vake. Every Friday and Saturday at 8 pm, they put on energetic shows that are not to be missed.
We were lucky enough to be seated upstairs in their exquisitely decorated restaurant, right in front of the stage where all the excitement happens. Sure, you could say it’s a bit touristy, but having the dancers perform and leap so close to us was pretty cool.
Since I was still stuffed from the amazing meal we had earlier, I decided to order a few appetizers – pkhali, a colorful mix of vegetable and walnut dishes topped with pomegranate seeds, along with some cornbread.
I also tried the badrijani nigvzit, which were smoky eggplant rolls filled with a deliciously spiced walnut and garlic paste, topped with pomegranate.
Stamba Hotel
We finished our evening with a few cocktails at the gorgeous Stamba Hotel’s Pink Bar.
Day 3
It was a gorgeous sunny morning when we woke up, and to top it off, it was my friend’s birthday! We walked for about 10 minutes to Café Chaduna for breakfast, constantly getting distracted by the stunning architecture along the way.
This hidden gem, tucked away in an old townhouse in the historic Sololaki neighbourhood, had the most charming vintage decor. We were the only ones there when we arrived, probably because we were early by Georgian standards. I ordered chizhi bizhi, a Georgian twist on shakshuka, and several cups of their delicious coffee.
Abanotubani Historic Sulfur Bath District
Next up was a visit to the Abanotubani district – you will know when you have reached the right spot when you see the cute brick dome-shaped roofs and steam rising into the air and the beautiful Orbeliani bathhouse with the blue mosaics.
It felt like we had been transported to a different era. The area is incredibly beautiful, with numerous bathhouses that are all supplied by natural hot springs.
We had pre-booked a private room at Gulo’s Thermal Spa via Facebook and treated ourselves to kisi scrubs, which are similar to a Turkish hammam treatment. We started by showering and then alternated between the steaming hot bath and the refreshing cold plunge pool.
Then the lady (called a mekise) arrived to perform the kisi scrub and told us just to wear bikini bottoms. We had a relaxing and invigorating scrub with an exfoliating mitt and loads of soap suds, and then she surprised us by pouring a bucket of cold water over our heads! It was quite funny because I knew it was coming, but my friend had no clue!
Vino Underground
Early that evening we headed over to the Sololaki district and went to Vino Underground for a wine tasting. This place is famous for its natural wines, and it’s just a 10-minute walk from her hotel. We were in a cellar and had an interesting and laid-back wine-tasting experience. We got to try white, rose, amber, and red wines from small family-owned vineyards, and a delicious cheese board.
To celebrate my friend’s birthday, we had planned a dinner at Shavi Lomi, a restaurant close to Fabrika. As we entered through a unique door on the street, we discovered a magical courtyard. The restaurant itself had a beautiful rustic and eclectic vintage design.
I decided to try the lobio, a comforting wintry bean stew served in a clay pot alongside cornbread and pickled vegetables. I loved the ambience of the place and the food, service and cocktails were brilliant!
Fabrika
Our next stop was Fabrika, a seriously cool spot that’s loved by tourists and locals alike. This former Soviet-era sewing factory has been completely transformed into a creative hub. You’ll find amazing cafes, bars, workspaces, a hostel, and a vibrant open courtyard where everyone comes together for a drink. The atmosphere is buzzing with anticipation for the night ahead.
Bassiani
Then came the moment we had both been waiting for – a visit to the legendary underground club Bassiani, which holds the title of Georgia’s largest techno club. The night we chose to go, they had an incredible lineup of DJs, including DJs from Chile and the UK.
As we made our way into the club, we descended into the dimly lit, techno-throbbing depths, and from that point on, everything that unfolded was, as they say, history!!
Day 4
The weather took a sudden turn, and we were met with dark clouds and a drizzle when we woke up. After a night out at Bassiani, we were feeling pretty low energy.
We decided to grab breakfast at Kikliko in Vake, a lively spot with a charming outdoor terrace that’s perfect when the weather cooperates. While there, we chatted to a lovely couple and their adorable sausage dogs, who had fled Russia when the war with Ukraine broke out.
For breakfast, I had kikliko, Georgia’s version of French toast – a delicious fried eggy bread, generously topped with cheese, sundried tomatoes, and sour cream.
After breakfast, I was tempted to just crawl back into bed, but my friend convinced me to explore the city on a bicycle tuk-tuk and then a boat trip along the Kura River. Despite the cold, dreary weather and my hangover, I was so grateful for the incredible weather we had experienced over the last few days. It had allowed us to witness the city and Kazbegi in all their glory!
KHIDI
We were supposed to wrap up the story right there since we were flying back home the next morning. However, fate had a different idea in store for us. We ended up at this club called KHIDI, located under a bridge on the President Heydar Aliyev Embankment later that night.
It may not have been the most sensible decision, but it made for a more exciting conclusion! KHIDI was incredible I had a great time chatting with random people on the chilly terrace and dancing in the heaving smaller room filled with sweaty bodies and base!
